Decoding the Brilliance: Platinum vs. 14k and 18k White Gold in Rings
When it comes to choosing the perfect metal for your ring, the options can be overwhelming.
Among the popular choices are platinum, 14k white gold, and 18k white gold. Each has its unique characteristics, and understanding the scientific reasons behind their differences can help you make an informed decision. In this blog post, we'll delve into the distinctions between platinum and white gold, exploring the composition, durability, and how these materials wear over time in rings. We'll also provide insights into care and maintenance to keep your precious ring looking radiant for years to come.
1. Composition and Scientific Differences:
Platinum:
Platinum is a rare and precious metal known for its exceptional durability and hypoallergenic properties. Its chemical symbol, Pt, reflects its purity, and platinum is often used in its nearly pure form (often 95% pure) for jewelry. Platinum's density and weight surpass that of gold by 60%, giving it a distinct heft and a lustrous, grayish-white appearance. This metal is resistant to tarnish and corrosion, making it an excellent choice for long-lasting jewelry.
White Gold:
White gold, on the other hand, is an alloy created by combining yellow gold with other metals like nickel, palladium, or zinc. The "white" in white gold is achieved by adding a rhodium plating, giving it a bright and reflective surface. Commonly available in 14k and 18k varieties, the number represents the gold content per 24 parts, with 14k containing 58.3% pure gold and 18k containing 75%.
2. Durability and Wear Over Time:
Platinum:
Due to its density and natural hardness, platinum is highly durable and resistant to scratching and wear. Over time, platinum develops a patina finish that adds character to the metal, giving it a matte appearance. Thanks to the 60% increase in weight compared to 14k white gold, you will know you are wearing a platinum ring - many enjoy the luxurious feel of the weight. Platinum is considered to be a hypoallergenic metal, being an excellent choice if you have sensitivities to nickel.
While platinum is an excellent choice for many rings, it's important to consider its drawbacks. One notable drawback is its cost; platinum is generally more expensive than other metals due to its rarity and density. The weight of platinum can make rings feel heavier compared to those made from lighter metals. Platinum develops a natural patina over time, which some may find appealing for its antique look, but others may prefer a longer lasting bright polish. Despite its durability, platinum is softer than other precious metals, making it more susceptible to scratches and dings. Regular maintenance may be required to preserve its appearance. Resizing platinum rings can be more challenging and expensive than resizing those made from other materials.
Platinum will form a “patina” with wear.
Love it, or hate it, this is the nature of platinum. If you are looking for a bright polish finish, platinum can absolutely be brought back to it’s brand new brilliance. Most guests find that their platinum rings require a polish every 2-5 years.
Expect an average life expectancy to be 15-20 years for most prongs before a replacement crown or retipping is needed, with major full ring refurbishment needed closer to the 30/40+ year wear mark. *not a guarantee, this estimate is based on normal wear patterns observed over time.
White Gold:
While white gold is a durable choice for jewelry, it is not as dense as platinum. This makes it more susceptible to wear over time, especially in rings that are worn daily. The rhodium plating, although providing a brilliant white appearance, may wear off over the years, revealing the natural yellowish tint of the underlying gold/nickel alloy. Regular maintenance and re-plating can restore its original shine. White gold has a stunning, bright white appearance that closely resembles platinum. Compared to platinum, white gold is generally more affordable. This makes it an excellent option for those looking for a white metal without the higher price tag associated with platinum.
While white gold is an excellent choice for many rings, it's important to consider its drawbacks. Re-plating is required periodically to maintain the original look, adding to the long-term maintenance costs (rhodium plating is a covered cost if you elect for JM Care Plan). Some individuals may experience skin sensitivity or allergic reactions to the alloys present in white gold. This is especially true for people with nickel allergies, as nickel is a common alloy used in white gold. While 14k white gold is more affordable, 18k white gold contains a higher percentage of pure gold, making it more expensive, luxurious and more intrinsically valuable. The cost difference may influence the choice based on individual budget considerations.
Rhodium plating is an extra step… but totally worth it.
Rhodium plating is purely cosmetic, it is not required for white gold, however it will enhance the ring’s appearance. Most guests replate their white gold every 2-5 years.
Expect an average life expectancy to be 10-15 years for most prongs before a replacement crown or retipping is needed, with major full ring refurbishment needed closer to the 20/25 year mark. *not a guarantee, this estimate is based on normal wear patterns observed over time.
3. Care and Maintenance Tips:
Platinum:
Maintaining platinum jewelry is relatively simple. Regular cleaning with a mild soap and water solution or a professional jeweler's cleaning solution can help remove any accumulated dirt or oils. Due to its density, platinum retains its structure well, though take note to watch out for bending or warping of thin platinum bands or prongs. Avoid metal to metal contact where your ring will be scratched, or bent out of shape.
White Gold:
To keep white gold rings looking their best, avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals, even things like hand sanitizer can accelerate the wear of the rhodium plating. Periodic re-plating every few years can restore the bright white finish. Cleaning with a soft brush and mild detergent can help preserve its appearance.
Both White Gold and Platinum:
Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Both 14k gold and platinum can be sensitive to harsh chemicals, which can cause discoloration or damage. Avoid exposing your rings to household cleaning agents, chlorine, and other abrasive chemicals.
Remove Before Activities: Take off your rings before engaging in activities that might expose them to potential damage. This includes heavy lifting, gardening, working out, or any physical work where the ring might come into contact with hard surfaces.
Be Cautious with Gemstones: If your ring features gemstones, be mindful of their specific care requirements. Some gemstones may be more susceptible to damage or scratches, so handle your ring with care to avoid impacting or scratching the stones.
Limit Impact and Friction: Both 14k gold and platinum can be scratched, so avoid exposing your rings to unnecessary impact or friction. Be mindful of surfaces that could potentially scratch the metal, and store your rings separately to prevent them from rubbing against each other.
Limit Exposure to Lotions and Perfumes: Not only will these items leave a film on your gemstones, some lotions, perfumes, and cosmetics can contain chemicals that may affect the appearance of your rings. Apply these products before putting on your rings to minimize exposure.
Annual Checkups: Regardless of the material you select, it is encouraged that you have your daily wear jewelry, especially rings, checked by a jeweler on a somewhat annual basis. We encourage at least once a year, if possible.
Any jewelry item, free of obvious damage or loose gems, will be cleaned with an ultrasonic and steam cleaner while having gemstones and prongs checked. This process cleans your gems, taking off any surface residue from the jewelry, note this does not polish the metal. Only taking a few minutes, visiting a jeweler regularly is crucial to ensuring that your jewelry continues to stay in good condition.
Conclusion:
Choosing between platinum and white gold for your ring involves considering factors like budget, aesthetics, and maintenance preferences. While platinum boasts unparalleled durability and a unique aging process, white gold offers a more budget-friendly option with regular maintenance requirements. Understanding the scientific reasons behind their differences empowers you to make a choice that aligns with your preferences, ensuring your ring stands the test of time in both style and substance.
